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Tips for Reducing Camera Shake
Just about everything you could ever want to know about Camera Shake and how to avoid it.
Note: This is an extensive listing. Read through this guide and choose the tips that make sense to you and your camera. You can then make your own personal reference guide to take with you in the field.
The following responses are summarized from the 3 discussions here:
• Tips for Reducing Camera Shake - DPReview discussion, Canon Lens group - Lots of suggestions
• Tips for Reducing Camera Shake - DPReview discussion, Nikon Talk Group - More suggestions
• Tips for Reducing Camera Shake - DPReview Discussion, Olympus Talk group. More suggestions.
Other sites with info on avoiding / preventing camera shake:
Camera Shake - From Silverlight.co.uk site
How to Avoid Camera Shake - From About site
Eliminate Camera Shake - From Photojournalism site
Steady Camera = Sharp Pictures - From Learn.co.uk site
Proper Handholding Technique - From Moose Peterson site
How to Hold your Camera Steady - Technique plus video - Steve’s Photographic Landscapes site
I have taken the liberty to copy and paste the responses here giving the original poster the credit of course. Although these were posted on 3 different forums from photogs using 3 different brands of cameras I think we can all agree that most will work on any camera. Using a tripod is obvious but not always practical IMHO.
From the Canon SLR Lens Talk discussion group
From Sean Rose, note: Sean is the one that started the whole ball rolling on this discussion. Thank you Sean!
Original Post here:
Hey all, there was a thread in the 300d forum on lens shake and I posted the following tips I use to help steady the camera when shooting long telephoto. Still, it's made me think.. maybe someone else has some great tips too! So here are mine, please share yours!
There are a number of things that affect camera shake. As you have pointed out 300mm is one. The 1.6x crop factor is another - it amplifies your shake by using less of the 35mm frame - enlarged to the same final output size. Not using a fast enough shutter speed is another.
Still, one of the most often overlooked is YOU the photographer. You have to concentrate on what your body is doing. Try not to breathe. Inhale or exhale and hold it - then click the shutter. Is your right arm (left for lefties!) dangling out in the air as it holds the camera? Or are you pulling it in tight against your torso for support? If it wont mess up your framing too much, I find that kneeling, squatting and sitting can make your body much less prone to shake compared to standing up. Shooting several frames with a click of the shutter makes up for the movement as your hand squeezes the shutter button (and thus the camera). If you are shooting flowers.. drop your neckstrap and stand on it.. pull the camera up and voila - a rudimentary monopod/tripod.
Hope that gives you some ideas!
--
-Sean
Post by Jenny Z
Original Post here:
Turning my car engine off is a big plus. I was getting camera shake terrible last year taking eagle photos in winter and I always left the engine running and used my car as a blind. Now I crank up the heat til I get to where I'm going and turn the car off and the window open and usually I can make it almost an hour in 20 degree weather til I want the heat back on again. I used to keep it on and the car running but had too many blurry photos with my Sigma 50-500. I also bought a bogen gimbal mount to use with my monopod or use my beanbag the pod with the gimbal or bogen grip 3265.
Post by Gayle
Original Post here:
Here's my tips:
Lean against something solid, such as a tree or a fencepost.
Sit down, bend your knees and rest your elbows on your knees. Use one hand to hold the grip of the camera and the other hand under the lens. I have shot 200mm at 1/6 secod without IS using this method AND got sharp shots.
If you have no external supprt and have to shoot standing up, make the top half of your body as compact as possible and the lower half as your support. Tuck your chin in, hold your elbows close to your sides and spread your legs slightly, one foot forward, to balance yourself. Hold your breath as you squeeze the shutter.
Gayle
From RichT2000
Original Post here:
Couple of things which work for me when hand holding.
- Instead of pressing the shutter button down vertically, slowly 'wipe' your finger across the shutter button.
- Elbow rested in stomach/ribs, I Breathe in, breathe out a little bit, hold and shoot.
- This one only works if your subject is static. Stick the drive into multi-burst and take 3 shots. I find that out of the three, the second or third one will be sharper. Perhaps this is because I make so much effort to be still to press the button, I am more relaxed a few centiseconds later ?
- My girlfriend in 5'6",where I am 6'3". I find her head perfect height to place a bean bag on and then rest my 100-400L on top. She gets annoyed when I shout at her to stop bloody moving !!! She gets even more annoyed when I say "thanks, mono-girl !"
- I've never tried it, but I've heard about inverted mono-pods. Basicly a hook which threads into the tripod mount of the camera, with a loop of string which you put under your foot. you then pull the camera up so the string is tort.
From DIGIC
Original Post here:
When shooting static subjects (indoor in museums, churchs and others, for example) with low-light requiring very low shutter speeds (with a 16mm-20mm lens, less than 1/20 for example), i usually use MLU (mirror lock up).
I frame, squeeze the shutter once for the mirror to lock and then gently squeeze it right after to take the shot (trying to keep the framing as steady as possible).
I then review the shot to ensure the framing i got was the one i wanted and repeat the process if it failed.
This may seem a bit odd, but it really works for extreme slow shutter speeds!
Post from Nickleback
Original Post here:
If you are shooting a static scene in low light, use the self timer or IR remote and something really solid, like the ground or a table. I took shots of cathedral ceilings using a 35mm P&S -- just hit the self timer, place it on the floor, and let it do its work. The smaller the camera and the wider the lens, the more places you'll find to stick the camera and let it take the shot. I've even placed a camera on an iron latch on an old door (and made sure nobody was on the other side, about to open the door).
A beanbag helps with fine positioning, but if that isn't available be creative - an eraser, a folded napkin, a wad of gum?
Post by Carl W. Johnson
Original Post here:
What I have used, mainly in the past (before IS), is a tabletop tripod. I have a a Leitz tabletop and Leitz ballhead, and I place two legs of the the tripod on my shoulders, and the third leg on my chest. I have shot down to about 1/8 sec with my film cameras.
Bill J.
Post by Cyrano
Original Post here:
Place the palm of your left hand on your right shoulder, next to your neck. Keep your left elbow pointing straight out, so that your left arm now makes a "V" in a plane parallel to the ground.
This "V" is a surprisingly stable platform on which to rest your camera.
I get much better results using this posture than any of the more traditional ones (like supporting the camera from underneath, tucking your left elbow into your rib cage.)
Post by Joe Sesto
Original Post here:
Breathe
Relax
Aim
Sight
Squeeze
No difference in photog w/ long lenses.
I'll try the V- trick...sounds interesting. (Except I have very short arms.)I've usually tried to grab a pole with my left hand, bend the elbow, create a notch for the lens...shoot. But there's not always a pole around.
I've heard of using a cut to length dog leash, leather...tipod screw on 1 end...foot thru loop on the other...pull up against the leash screwed into tripod hole...variation on an earlier post.
Other tricks I've tried w/Pro1...shorten neckstrap...turn LCD horizontal...pull down on neckstrap w/both hands gripping camera...lean back against solid object...feet spread...frame on LCD...tends to reduce tremors...have shot down to 1/8th with acceptable results...not a choice on 20D...unless you're just making a wide shot to straighten later.
My usual slow speed shot is both elbows tucked tightly into body...slowly depress shutter to the extent that you don't know exactly when it will fire.
Also agree that 3 shots are better than 1. On 35mms used to lay finger across shutter release and flex finger to depress shutter...not push it.
Self-timer idea is great for ceilings, etc. People watching think you are nuts, tho...gets interesting interplay. Have even had security keep others back...
Good thread.
--
Joe Sesto
Post by Blevin
Original Post here:
If you use a 2 second timer while still holding the camera, camera movement due to clicking the shutter release is eliminated. Of course, other factors are still in play.
Post by Richard Crowe
Original Post here:
All of the above ideas are valid.
Simply thinking about releasing your shutter smoothly might help. I know that in the adrenaline pumping excitement of shooting a sporting event or the equivalent - I sometimes am prone to jabbing the shutter button rather than smooooooothly pressing it. I can feel the difference and see the difference in my images when I consciously think about a smooth release.
iI am also a great fan of tripods and jusin a monopod when a tripod is impossible (not just inconvenient).
A tip for monopod use. Carry a strap of velcro about 2 feet long with the hooks on one side and the loops on the other. Use this strap to secure the monopod to anything that is steady (post, railing, etc.). You now have the steadiness of a tripod for an extra ounce of weight.
--
Retired Navy Master Chief Photographer's Mate - 30 years service. Combat Cameraman, Motion Picture Director and Naval Aircrewman. Equipment: Canon Ten-D DSLR with 17-40 Milimeter f/4L, 28 to 135 millimeter IS, 70 to 200 millimeter f/4L and, yes the plastic toy lens that delivers great images - 50 milimeter f/1.8 Mark II. Also Canon 1.4 x teleconverter and 420 ex flash.
From the Olympus Talk Forum
From Steve B.
Original post here
1. Use ISO 200 or higher and noise reduction software to keep shutter speed up.
2. Use as wide an aperture as possible to keep shutter speed up.
3. If there's a 2 second timer available, use it. My C750 doesn't have one, but it was handy on my old Casio QV3000 to give time for wobbling to subside after pressing the shutter.
4. Continue to hold the camera still after pressing the shutter release until you're sure the shutter has finished closing.
5. Lean against something.
6. Brace elbows to one's sides, use the eyepiece not LCD.
From SMBooth
Prozak (tongue in cheek)
From tsia (BOB)
Original post here:
-- I try not to drink too much Bourbon! Really, I carry a small sandbag, a couple of cheap ballheads on clamps, a 3 foot length of threaded rod with one sharp end, and a tee nut on the other, and have My carry straps rigged so I can loop them behind My head and put tension on them. One of the clamps will lock on any of the tubes on the mountain bike, or a small tree branch, the other clamp on the window glass of the Jeep. I get winded easily, and heavy breathing can be a problem. The bike is turning out to be a real rolling camera mount. I found a Slik 5000 tripod in Goodwill the other day, $3.99, new in the box, I would not have paid full retail for it, but it is short enough to strap on the bike, and is steady enough for My light cameras. No one ever rides in the Jeep but My Grandson and I, so We can leave all the junk in the rear seat. There are things down at the bottom that have not seen light in years.
From Johno
Original post here
1) Shoot with an UZI
2) use the viewfinder, not the LCD
3) control breathing
4) use both hands
5) brace elbows against side
6) hold a wide stance.
7) gently roll finger onto shutter release button
8) workout regularly at the gym
9) take the polariser off when not needed
10) take a burst with continuous drive mode, and pick the best one
Preventing camera shake - A site with a few good tips
From Macky Patalinghug
Original post here:
I kept the setting at auto but pumped up the ISO and did continous shootings at ISOs 250, 320 and 400 on each item. some minor photoshop adjustments (levels and or auto levels, auto colors, brightness contrast and maybe a lil despeckle in the noise filter) later in the computer and i usually have at least one good image in my 5-9 frames.
From Inigo Montoya
Original post here:
1. Monopod - since tripod was obvious :-)
2. Image stabilization system (Uzi, Ezi in the Oly world)
3. Back off on caffeine
4. Form a triangle between elbows and your head to hold the camera firm against your body - elbows in against your sides, etc.
5. Controlled breathing -- hold while pressing shutter (learned as a target shooting tip)
6. Watch your shutter speed -- pay attention to the 1/focal-length rule. If necessary, boost ISO to keep the shutter fast enough.
7. Lean against something -- a wall, a tree, a post.
From Photofile
Original post here:
Neck and strap
If using the LCD screen to compose (rather than the viewfinder), hold the camera out infront of you until the strap becomes taught and is well braced against the back of your neck.
From Lucy:
Original post here:
....bracing the camera tightly against a wall, post, tree or whatever is available...or placing the camera on a firm surface.
Now that I have my UZI with image stabilization, I can catch photos 'on the fly' and not have to worry much about getting an 'out of focus' shot. Image stabilization is the best tool!
From Steve B.
Original post here:
1. Use ISO 200 or higher and noise reduction software to keep shutter speed up.
2. Use as wide an aperture as possible to keep shutter speed up.
3. If there's a 2 second timer available, use it. My C750 doesn't have one, but it was handy on my old Casio QV3000 to give time for wobbling to subside after pressing the shutter.
4. Continue to hold the camera still after pressing the shutter release until you're sure the shutter has finished closing.
5. Lean against something.
6. Brace elbows to one's sides, use the eyepiece not LCD.
From the Nikon Talk Forum - A forum for Nikon Prosumer cameras (Non DSLR)
Posted by Larry Berman
Original Post here:
Note: This advice is for Prosumer cameras that do not have a good Electron Viefinder such as the Nikon Coolpix 5000.
For hand holding (not recommended) use the Xtend-a-View LCD magnifier so you can hold the camera up to your eye like a SLR. Consumer digital cameras by design are not meant to be held steady having to hold the camera away from your body to view the LCD for accurate composition.
I actually don't take a picture with a consumer (prosumer) digital camera without the Xtend-a-View
From Dotnik
Original Post here:
Do not hold it like a camcorder.
Press it against a part of your body. If you hold the camera like a SLR you can press the viewfinder or your fingers / hand against your head.
The ultimate trick with swivel-body cameras. Hold the camera like the first portable cameras where you looked down on the viewfinder / monitor and press you arms against your body. (you should be able to get sharp shots at 1/8 sec. without BSS)
Post by MiriumJ
Original Post here:
Increase your lighting, or shoot in aperture mode and increase the size of your aperture, so you can have a faster shutter speed. (The smaller the number the larger the aperture). As a last resort, increase your ISO, although your picture will be noisier.
From Grixer-2
Original post with photos of setups
From Craig “Sully” Sullivan
Original post here:
Take 3 or 4 rapid fire shots and let BSS (best shot selector) select the sharpest.
Post from zyxwvutsr
Original post here:
Press the left side of your camera, gently but firmly, against a stationary object. A corner of a building, a lamppost, a tree, a vehicle. If done carefully it's almost as good as shooting on a tripod, at least as far as reducing shake. (You can, of course get better results with a tripod mounted camera using a remote or self-timer.)
There are two drawbacks encountered using this method:
1. It limits where you can point your camera. Best to shoot a bit wider than you think you'll need to give a little extra room to crop.
2. Sometimes, due to the inanimate object available, you cannot position the camera's left side against it. You can try pressing the right side against the support, but that is sometimes too awkward because of the location of the shutter button. Another method is to flip the camera upside down and flip the image when editing.
Post by Gaber
Original Post here:
--There are many variations on how to stabilize the strap. You have to use your own cunning. Basically, what you do is loop the camera strap under your shoe and keep it taut, this will stabilize the camera almost as well as a tripod. You can loop the strap on rods, chairs, etc as the opportunities present.
Another technique is to make a portable tripod. For this method you must find an appropriate bolt (or something) that will screw into the tripod adapter and then tie a cord to it of any length (in the manner of a camera strap) and use that in the same way that I described above. You then have a very portable tripod that rolls up and fits in your pocket.
Post by bdery
Original Post here:
re: use the camera strap
You can also buy a cheap mini-tripod which costs almost nothing (most cost less than 5 $, mine was more expensive since the legs extend, and the camera mount swivels)
They usually slip into a pocket really easily, and if your camera case is large enough, it'll slip in. It saved me on many occasions, and when the legs are gathered together, a mini-tripod can even be used as a handle to hold your camera like a pistol. Sometimes that helps too.
Original Post here:
Post by Paul
Just the old tricks: Spread your legs (slightly), use the viewfinder (instead of the LCD) to frame, hold the camera against your face, press your elbows firmly into your sides, and shoot in sync with your breathing. Exhale slowly, hold your breath for a moment and then release the shutter before taking the next breath.
Post by Brad
Original Post here:
Buy a 8800 and use the VR function. Or try to find a level surface and use your remote. Also if your lens is long enough a fork in a tree works. I also have 2 tripods, a manfrotto regular sized and a small pocket tripod for macro, it can also be used on a steady surface for whatever.
Original Post here:
Post by Davespix
If I have to stand and hand hold; I place heavy point of cam on my shoulder and a twist of the body, but have great success.
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A comprehensive listing of Photoshop tips, tricks, tutorials, plug-ins, actions, workflow and more mostly culled from DPReview's Retouching Forum. The emphasis of this site is on retouching. I am now expanding the list to include basic Digital Photography info as well as specific categories of Digital Photography such as Nature, Landscape and portrait photography. Most but not all of this info is free. This list will be continually updated for the next few months. It will be indexed by subject and finely honed but will remain a simple site of links to easily navigate (hopefully). Your additions, suggestions and help openly solicited. Please advise of any bad or improper links.
I want to thank the many wonderful contributors on the Retouching Forum and others that contributed to the existence of this index. I have contributed little except to compile these links to some really wonderful Photoshop info.
Thanks to all who contributed to make this guide possible
Ken Leonard
Belmont Shore, SoCal
e-mail: xl1ken@earthlink.net
or